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| c. 1730, len, jedwab, wełna / linen, silk, wool Glasgow Museums |
Quilted waistcoat more than with eighteenth-century lady can be associated with farmer in autumn outfit. Maybe this is not the most attractive cloth for women, but it's practical (and when we think about fashion of the century this is a huge advantage). Quilted waistcoats were informal clothing, worn either under the jacket, or only inside the house. We can say they are something between undergarment and formal clothes. However all that silks, rich embroidery and fancy quilts didn't go in vain - close friends could see it in the boudoir of lady of the house.
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| 1 ćw. XVIII wieku / 1half of of the 18th century, Arizona Costume Institute |
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| 1702 - 1727, flanela, len, jedwab / flannel, linen, silk, National Trust Collections |
Kamizelka ma swoje stałe cechy-
jest dopasowana do talii, ma baskinkę, której "rogi"najczęściej są
zaokrąglone i jest zapinana od przodu. Jeśli chodzi o zapięcia to może być wiązana na tasiemki,
sznurowana, mieć wszyty panel do sznurowania, a jak wnioskuję po jednym z
poniższych zabytków także i na haftki. Kamizelki bywały też usztywniane, co sprawiało, że czasami funkcjonowały jako miękkie sznurówki - trzymały w ryzach biust, ale nie masakrowały wnętrzności. Tu mam małą zagwostkę - na zagranicznych stronach terminy waistcoat i jumps są stosowane wręcz wymiennie. Czy były pomiędzy nimi jakieś konkretne różnice?
The vest has its usuall features - it's fitted to the waist, has a "basque" which corners are usually round, and is fasten in front. When it comes to fastening it can be tied on ribbons, laced up, can have lacing panel, and probably also hooks. Vests were sometimes also stiffed and sometimes functioned as a soft stays - kept the bust in place, but not massacred guts. Here I have a small puzzle - on English-language websites waistcoat and jumps terms are used interchangeably. Do you know if there were some specific differences between them?
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| c. 1745, jedwab / silk V&A Museum |
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| połowa XVIII wieku / mid 18th century, jedwab / silk |
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| c. 1700, Museum of London |
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| c. 1700, cotton, silk, linen / bawełna, jedwab, len Philadelphia Museum of Art |
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Z datowania zachowanych zabytków można odnieść wrażenie, że popularne
były przede wszystkim w pierwszej połowie XVIII wieku, ale to wątpliwe, kobiety zrezygnowały z czegoś tak wygodnego i przydatnego w
kiepsko ogrzewanych i atakowanych przeciągami pomieszczeniach.
When look at dates of relics you can have impression that waistcoats were popular mainly in the first half of the 18th century, but it's doubtful that women resigned from something as comfy and useful in rooms which were poorly heated and attacked by draughts.
O ile łatwo jest znaleźć przykłady "w naturze", to o ikonografię trzeba powalczyć. Udało mi się znaleźć tylko przykłady zwykłych kamizelek, ale wyraźnie o charakterze "nieformalnym". Może i te kamizelki nie są bardzo oczywiste, ale ewidentnie widać, że nie są to gorsety.
While it is easy to find examples of real, historical clothes, is really hard to find examples on paintings. I found only plain, not quilted waistcoats, but with very "informal" look. Maybe those waistcoats are not very obvious, but evidently they aren't stays.
While it is easy to find examples of real, historical clothes, is really hard to find examples on paintings. I found only plain, not quilted waistcoats, but with very "informal" look. Maybe those waistcoats are not very obvious, but evidently they aren't stays.
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| Jean-Baptiste Greuze, 1765-1780 |
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| Jean-Baptiste Greuze, 1771 |
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| Jean-Baptiste Santerre, before 1710 |
Jeśli ktoś chce zrobić sobie własną kamizelkę - tu ma wzór :)
If someone want to make own waistcoat - here is nice pattern :)
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| link |
Quilted
brocaded damask bodice lined with coarse cotton, printed in madder. The
outer silk is a dark green damask, brocaded with a sprig in silver
thread (file and frise), this silk probably dates from the 1690s but the
quilting obscures the pattern. It is of high quality and could have
been an expensive fabric, however it may have been used c. 1700, when
out of fashion.
The
lining is a very coarse woven cotton printed in three shades of madder
with a formal lattice pattern with pencilled blue details.
The bodice is edged with a fine green silk ribbon with an additional outer fringed ribbon.
- See more at:
http://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/Online/object.aspx?objectID=object-462988&start=3&rows=1#sthash.AlLgFpWl.dpufThe bodice is edged with a fine green silk ribbon with an additional outer fringed ribbon.
Quilted
brocaded damask bodice lined with coarse cotton, printed in madder. The
outer silk is a dark green damask, brocaded with a sprig in silver
thread (file and frise), this silk probably dates from the 1690s but the
quilting obscures the pattern. It is of high quality and could have
been an expensive fabric, however it may have been used c. 1700, when
out of fashion.
The
lining is a very coarse woven cotton printed in three shades of madder
with a formal lattice pattern with pencilled blue details.
The bodice is edged with a fine green silk ribbon with an additional outer fringed ribbon.
- See more at:
http://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/Online/object.aspx?objectID=object-462988&start=3&rows=1#sthash.AlLgFpWl.dpufThe bodice is edged with a fine green silk ribbon with an additional outer fringed ribbon.
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